All our articles about Calais have been about the migrants. This one is going to be about Calais as a town that wants to welcome tourists!
By ferry to France
We went across from Dover on the DFDS ferry, boycotting, of course, P&O because, although it might be cheaper, the company now has a bad reputation for how it treated its employees.
Many of the other passengers on our boat were HGV drivers, who have their own restaurant serving hot meals, probably included with their ticket, with a nearby sitting area where the seats are arranged near TV screens, with programmes already showing in various languages of choice.
I am glad to note that HGV drivers are treated to such conveniences on the crossing, as some of them might have had a hard time driving through the UK, which tends to be rather stingy or neglectful of such provisions.
The boat docked at the ferry port and we drove off, following directions to the town centre. All along the seaward side of this road there is a huge three-metre-high fence topped with barbed wire. I suppose this is part of what the UK paid for, in its efforts to aid the French in stopping the cross-Channel migrants.
The lace quarter
Guided by our SatNav, we easily got to where we were invited to stay, which was in the old lace-making part of the town centre, with streets of terraced housing built in the mid-19th century by the British industrialists who imported lace-making machinery to a factory at the centre (now a museum about this industry).
Arriving at the address we had been given, we were greeted by Rémi Macault and his English wife, Katherine. At the flat where they had offered to accommodate us, we were offered an aperitif with snacks (not the kind in rustly tinsel, but baguette bread with something tasty on top). When the President of Cote d’Opale Synergie and of MetrOpale,Thaddée Ségard, joined us, we got stuck into a two-hour discussion on what we are doing, on each side of the Channel, to get trains crossing the Channel again, AND stopping at Ashford and Calais.
Remembering Blériot
They then took us on a little car tour towards the south, to the site where the first successful flight across the Channel took place in 1909 by French aviator Louis Blériot. They also pointed out various ruins of the impressive fortifications made by the Germans during World War II and the site of the radar they used for the aerial combats. Calais also suffered a lot from aerial bombardment (by the Allies) and a lot of prominent buildings had to be rebuilt or restored after the war.
Calais-Fréthun has seen better days
It was then time to visit Calais-Fréthun station where they wanted us to see the arrival of the TGV train from Lille. We arrived just as passengers were streaming from this train. It is obvious that a lot of people from Calais and the nearby coastal towns work daily in Lille, the regional capital.
We went up on the bridge to photograph this train as it moved out to the coastal stations, which, they argue, is a misuse of a TGV train as a stopping train on a slower line. Much better to send this train through the Channel tunnel to Ashford. Let’s hope they win their arguments!
We also took photographs of the desolate international section of this station, locked away as if, just like Ashford, frozen in time, its international signage now behind rusting bars.
The town hall
The next day we visited the Mairie of Calais. Pascal Martinache, Director of Communication and Marketing at the Mayor’s office, received us and told us about their hopes and plans for Calais. He started off bemoaning the public image of Calais. The popular mayor, Natacha Bouchart (in post since 2008) had tried to give succour to the migrants, setting up reception centres for them in the coldest months of the year. But the policy had back-fired and, eventually, the camps had been cleared.
But we did not want to ask further questions about what was happening to migrants now (we had already spotted a few sheltering under bridges). The purpose of our visit was about the prospects of increasing tourist flow, in both directions, across the Channel. Pascal Martinache suggested something should be arranged for the anniversary of the Entente Cordiale (8 April). We responded that the same idea had been voiced by officers in KCC.
The Dragon
One attraction Calais has profited from is the Dragon. This is a huge mechanical vehicle made of painted metal and wood that can be driven along the seafront and in the streets, to the huge enjoyment of onlookers. It can lie down, run up to 4 km/h and flap its huge wings. Passengers can even climb onto the beast’s back via a staircase on its tail.
It is the creation of François Delarozière whose company, La Machine, had begun using such mythical beasts in urban regeneration at Nantes (with a mechanical elephant). The Dragon first appeared in Calais in 2019 as part of the celebrations after the regeneration of the seafront. It is now a huge seasonal attraction.
In the afternoon, Chris Hammond went to take photos at various sites. We had already observed that the beaches near Calais are large and sandy, much better for family outings than some of the pebbly beaches of the south coast of England, or even Camber sands with its strong gusts.
Then it was time for a meeting with railway experts. On both sides of the Channel, we are investigating the feasibility of local trains being put through the Channel tunnel. The obstacles, both technical and political are formidable, but the determination of the enthusiasts is undeterred. From one side or the other, we just might achieve trains linking Kent to Pas-de-Calais in time for the Entente Cordiale anniversary! If not by then, at least before any of the other bidders for the tunnel passenger rail route deign to look at local needs.
Calais tourist office
The next day, we had a two-hour meeting at the Calais tourist office. The point of the meeting was to exchange views on how to increase the numbers of tourists from either side, tourists that would use local cross-channel trains if we could get them running. Advance bookings by groups would provide a stable customer base in season.
There are various seasonal events, such as the Dragon, and the Christmas market at Le Touquet. Also, a regular antiques fair attracts English customers. Exchanges of sports teams used to happen and could be restarted. There is an outstanding BMX centre on the French side as well as a olympic standard skatepark on the sea front . There is an annual international Blues festival in Calais. And so on through our list of mutual interests. We enjoyed telling them that Kent is getting famous for its vineyards!
